![]() It will allow current to flow from the alternator to each battery, but will not allow any current to flow the other direction. The isolator is like 2 one-way valves for electricity (which are called diodes). The isolator (Dodge shown) in the photo has the middle wire going to the alternator, the top wire going to the engine battery, the bottom wire to the house battery. The isolator on a Chevy will have 4 posts (an additional smaller post), while the isolator on a Dodge will have 3 posts. It will lead to one of the terminals of the isolator. If you don’t know what your alternator looks like, follow the big wire from the positive (+) terminal of your engine battery. It will lead to the center binding post of the isolator. If you have trouble finding the isolator follow the big electrical cable from the alternator. Location will vary from an obvious spot on the firewall to practically hidden under the engine battery. The isolator will be mounted under the hood, close to the alternator. We will assume you have lead-acid batteries (either AGM or wet cell), which have a fully charged resting voltage of about 12.7 volts. Since our Class B has an isolator, we will describe how to find out if the isolator is the source of your charging problem. If you find you have a problem with either your house or vehicle battery getting charged, it is important to check your isolator or separator. Unlike an isolator, a separator will draw some current while idle. In addition to charging both batteries from the alternator, the battery separator allows both house and vehicle batteries to be charged when you are plugged into shore power. However this article will not discus how to test a separator although the process is similar. Shown at the right is a battery separator. The job of these devices is to charge both house battery and the engine battery, yet to keep the batteries separate or isolated from each other so you will not deplete your engine battery if you run your house battery too low (and vise versa). Alternator power flows normally through an isolator or a separator. Your alternator will charge both your engine battery and your house battery. The easiest and fastest way to charge your battery is to drive. ![]() If you camp without electrical hookups it is important that you keep your batteries in good condition and that they get charged. Battery Separatorīatteries are vital to RVers. Or you can spend a lot more on a more versatile multimeter. A basic multimeter from Harbor Freight can do what you need for $5.99. Your will need a multimeter (sometimes called a VOM or Volt Ohm Meter). It is important to be able to do some basic troubleshooting yourself to fix the problem. Note that even if you have two (or more) house batteries we will use the single term battery in this article. WHAT YOU GET: (1) 140 Amp Voltage Sensitive Relay (VSR) (1) 20 ft red battery cable (1) 2 ft black ground battery cable (2) positive brass marine battery terminals (1) negative brass marine type battery terminal tinned copper lugs and heat shrink cable ties easy-to-follow instructions.Nearly every motorhome owner will at sometime experience a charging problem with their house battery. Great for extreme vibration applications as well. This International Protection rating means that your KeyLine isolator is safe for use even for your off-road needs in dusty, wet, and unexpected extreme weather environments. RUGGED DURABILITY: Unlike other isolators on the market, the KeyLine Automatic 140 Amp Dual Battery Isolator is IP65 Certified. It's like having 2 separate power sources for each battery while only having one alternator! Voltage Sensitive Relay (VSR) cuts in at 13.3 volts and cuts out at 12.8 volts to ensure your primary battery is always charged and ready to start your vehicle. VOLTAGE SENSITIVE RELAY: The KeyLine AUtomative 140 Amp Dual Battery Isolator is all you need to charge 2 battery systems. This compact battery isolator was built ultra-small (2.6" x 2.6" x 2") to fit almost anywhere! A perfect fit under the hood to get close to your dual batteries. ZERO VOLTAGE DROP: Forget the traditional diode relays and so-called "solid-state" devices that can rob you of almost 2 amps of output power! The Dual Battery Isolator is the only unit designed with cutting-edge programming to deliver optimum performance - with ZERO sacrifices.
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